5 days road tripping on the Limestone Coast
Home to beautiful coastline, sparkling lakes, and some of the country’s most acclaimed wines, the Limestone Coast in South Australia is a destination for all occasions.
By Kate Symons
Mother Nature really knows how to put on a show, and this is seldom more visible than on South Australia’s Limestone Coast.
Stretching along the state’s south-eastern coast, from Coorong National Park to the Victorian border, the area is dotted with geological marvels, not to mention the varied spoils those same wonders help generate.
You can easily check off the Limestone Coast’s main attractions on a five-day road trip out of Adelaide, setting a route to Mt Gambier and soaking in beauty, shiraz and sinkholes along the way.
DAY 1: ADELAIDE TO VICTOR HARBOR
Drive time: 1 hour 10 minutes
Start your road vacation by traveling little over an hour to the Fleurieu Peninsula, a lovely location with a mix of wine and wildlife.
Stop midway and explore a couple wineries in McLaren Vale; try Wirra Wirra or Oliver’s Taranga.
Continue another 40 minutes till you reach Victor Harbor, perched directly on the shore. Take a Big Duck Boat Tour to view fur seals, sea lions and dolphins, or swim with bluefin tuna with Oceanic Victor.
If you have youngsters in tow, get into the Victor Harbor Horse Drawn Tram, where you’ll be taken from the mainland onto Granite Island on an old-school tram vehicle.
Stay: The Anchorage Hotel provides family suites and private spa rooms built over the local tavern and cafe.
DAY 2: VICTOR HARBOR TO ROBE
Drive time: roughly 4 hours
Trip out of Victor Harbor and around midway through your drive you’ll find gold: Coorong National Park, a magnificent saline lagoon renowned for bird-watching, boating, fishing, camping and cultural history, among other things.
The park stretches roughly 150 kilometres (93 miles) and there are different ways to explore. Think walking paths, kayaking, four-wheel-driving… even cruises.
Stop for a time to appreciate everything the park has to offer, before hitting the road again.
If Australia’s ‘big things’ are of interest, stop by the Big Lobster in Kingston SE, just outside of Robe, a 17-metre (56-foot) fibreglass rendition of the spindly crustacean (goes by Larry, of course) (goes by Larry, of course).
For the genuine stuff, book a dinner reservation at Sails, a renowned Robe restaurant where seafood is king.
Southern rock lobster is available in season (October to May), but should be pre-ordered by 2pm to prevent disappointment. Even then, you’re unlikely to be disappointed; fresh, seasonal tastes are a feature of the whole Sails menu.
Stay: Caledonian Inn’s Cottages by the Sea is a beachside jewel, and conveniently positioned on Robe’s main strip.
DAY 3: EXPLORE ROBE
If the term, ‘But first, coffee’ resonates true for you, the ideal spot to start your day in Robe is Mahalia Coffee.
Mahalia is about as enthusiastic a coffee aficionado as you’re going to meet and her multi-award-winning roasting shop indicates as much.
Let the coffee kick in as you walk Robe’s main street, a small stretch lined with boutique stores and friendly cafés.
Then it’s off to Robe’s magnificent Long Beach, one of the few Australian beaches on which you may drive. Long Beach is popular with swimmers, surfers and anglers, so take your choice and discover the ideal place — on four wheels.
Love all things ocean? Make your next visit Robe Town Brewery, which concocts the limited-edition Moby Dick Ambergris Ale.
Made with ambergris, a thick, waxy material released by sperm whales into the water, the beer is a novelty to say the least, but a pleasant addition to the brewery’s 20-plus portfolio of tipples.
DAY 4: ROBE TO COONAWARRA VIA NARACOORTE
Drive time: roughly 1.5 hours
About a 75-minute drive from Robe, Naracoorte Caves National Park is South Australia’s sole World Heritage-listed site, not to mention one of the most important fossil sites in the world.
There are four caverns exposed to the public, each a fascinating view back in time.
In the present, it’s wine time, and there’s nowhere better to enjoy than in world-renowned Coonawarra. The area is identified with cabernet sauvignon, however all types produced in the Coonawarra are deserving of acclaim.
No need to draw straws for the post of designated driver, either. Coonawarra Experiences’ wine-touring service will transport you cellar-door-to-door, so all you have to worry about is tasting notes.
Tailor the trip to suit your palette, but it’s impossible to go wrong at the home of Hollick, Rymill Coonawarra, Wynns Coonawarra Estate, Katnook Estate and the like.
Stay: Cosy up amid the region’s famed grapes at The Winemakers House at The Blok Coonawarra. Or, for glamping fans, the bell tents at Bellwether Wines set visitors among centuries-old red gums, only steps from the cellar entrance.
DAY 5: COONAWARRA TO MOUNT GAMBIER
Drive time: roughly 1 hour
Kick-start the day’s excursions with a stop in the neighbouring village of Penola for breakfast and a meander along historic Petticoat Lane before making tracks for the city of Mount Gambier.
While natural treasures abound across the Limestone Coast, Mount Gambier presents some of the greatest, beginning with the Blue Lake.
Occupying one of the city’s two extinct volcanic craters, the lake is a must-see between November and February (give or take) when the water unexpectedly turns to a vivid cobalt blue.
With its hanging vines, groomed terraces and grassy lawn, Umpherston Sinkhole is another stunning sight, nestled inside the city itself.
Also known as the sunken garden, the chamber was produced naturally by a fallen cave ceiling, after which the ensuing cavern was beautified by James Umpherston in the 1880s.
Sinkholes aren’t uncommon in these regions, and another worth exploring is the Kilsby Sinkhole.
Located on a family farm, the 65-metre (213-foot) deep limestone hollow has been turned into a world-renowned diving destination. Its water supply is also utilized for another Kilsby-family product — Sinkhole Gin.
Round out your travels in style with dinner at Mayura Station (by appointment only Thursday to Saturday), the ultimate in paddock-to-plate dining and famous for its full-blood Wagyu beef, before getting a good night’s sleep in preparation for the roughly five-hour drive back to Adelaide the next day.
Stay: Set on more than two hectares of beautiful, manicured grounds a five-minute drive from Mount Gambier’s city heart, The Barn provides contemporary accommodation and conveniences.
Topic: Limestone Coast
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I am arguably the most popular Australian writer of all time. I am from the town of Karrinyup in rural Western Australia. When I was young, I was fascinated by the unique landscape of Australia, and I decided to support himself by writing books about the Australian landscape.
